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FashionTech Timelapsed: The Changing Fabrications in Textile Design

Exposition featuring  
Jackie Leung 梁美麗 | Tsai-chun Huang 黃才駿 | Lushan (Sarina) Sun 孫璐姍

June 18 - September 30, 2021 @ ITC Store (Block HJ Room HJ211) and The Fashion Gallery (online), PolyU

Webinar Series :

INDUSTRY PANEL DISCUSSION: Fashion Technology Adaptations

Past, Present& Future of the Supply Chain

Registration Link:

Webinar Series 2:

Firesite Chat with ITC Staff: Fashion Technology for YOUNG TALENTS

Webinar Series 1:



Curation: Lushan (Sarina) Sun, Jackie Leung, Tsai-chun Huang
Exhibit Management: Magnum Lam, HO Hiu Tung Hilton, Yuki Cheng
Photography: LEE Wai Leung 
Graphic Design: SO Chung Wa Elisa, CHEUNG Ching Fung Caelan, MA Hoi Yan Phyllis
Videography: Tina Ho, Oscar Ko, JIM, Yu Ching, Tiffany Chow
Styling: Jesse Yau, Miki Leung 
Modelling: Lai Pui Ki Peggy, LO Pan Chi Pansy, LAM Ching Nam Jasmine 
Exhibit Assistance: Simran Gulati, WAN Chi Hin Lawrence, Marcus Kuo

Introduction | 展覽介紹

FashionTech Timelapsed is a physical and online exposition jointly organized by the ITC Store and Fashion Gallery. It is developed to present and demystify the evolution of fashion technology from traditional hands-on craftsmanship to emerging digital methods. FashionTech Timelapsed forms a dialogue about the essence of the ever-changing technologies in product development for both the designer and the wearer through a storytelling approach. It features three groups of selected textile designs from ITC scholars, Dr Lushan (Sarina) Sun, Ms Jackie Leung, and Dr Tsai-chun Huang. Each group represents a technology genre that reveals textile design processes, material behavioural manipulations, and fabrication methods.

The event highlights the complementary natures between the seemingly dichotomous fashion technologies in traditional and modern design environments. Ultimately, it aims to raise awareness of the potential advantages, challenges, and impacts of the wide range of fashion technology integrations in the modern industry. As a part of the exposition, a series of complimentary webinars/workshops are developed to provide further discussion and education on fashion technology with students, experts, and industry professionals.

Expert Review

The exposition“ feels completely appropriate for these current times, embracing simultaneous online and physical curation and display…the idea of exhibiting the process of making, from low to high tech - alongside the final outputs and explainers allows for inclusivity and appeal to a wider audience from knowledge exchange with industry through to potential students”. “The design of the exhibition encompasses a potentially exciting relevant variety of display approaches. The process/making aspects put the garment displays into context alongside the (digital) videos.

----Ms. Philippa Brock, Central Saint Martins, UK

Exposition Photos

Felting and Couture Technologies by Jackie Leung, MA

Fashion technology has traditionally been a type of hands-on craftsmanship. Needle felting is the process of transforming wool into 3D objects using a barbed needle. In wool felting, fibres are agitated, so they bond together and create a solid fabric. Felting needles are now designed to be used in industrial felting machines to do felting at a much larger scale. Thousands of felting needles are in these machines making nonwoven fabric or felt sheets. The felted textile can be wrinkle-resistant and resistant to abrasion than other woollen fabrics.



Fibre: Wool and Silk | Fabric: Silk Tulle



Hyacinth imitates the melting effect on a human body through experimenting with felting lustrous wool and silk fibres with sheer silk tulle. The reflection of light from the matte wool surface and the body complexion forms a visually interesting contrast.

Peony & Lily


Fabric: Silk | Synthetics



Peony and Lily are dresses inspired by the elegance and intensity of the ballet body movement and emotions. Couture sewing techniques were utilized to help achieve the finishing details and garment stylelines that optimize ballerina’s movements in performance. Additional bodily freedom and expressions are therefore possible.

Pleating Technology by Tsai-chun Huang, PhD

Since Egyptian times, pleating technique has been used for thousands of years. It is often fabricated with a heat setting technique where fabric is placed between a two part mould and put inside a steaming machine. Traditionally, a pleat fluting iron is casted with pleat patterns on two matching parts. It is heated to sandwich fabrics for pleat setting. Heat set pleat continues to be a common technique in today’s fashion industry.


Currently, various industrial and manual pleating machines and tools are used to create diverse pleat designs for textile and apparel developments. With diverse textile design creations, pleats are used in more ways than ever before, including functional applications in commercial and specialty fields, like protective medical wearable (e.g., face mask), space suit, and interior.


Paper pleating is an efficient and hands-on approach to explore various folding patterns with different aesthetic and functional applications. In wearable development, it may serve as the prototype for fabric conversion that conceals, reveals, and manipulates particular body parts' mobility. With various weights, the paper pleats also can be further developed into moulding tools for the fabric pleating process.