Current Exhibition | 當前展覽

FashionTech Timelapsed: The Changing Fabrications in Textile Design

Exposition featuring  
Jackie Leung 梁美麗 | Tsai-chun Huang 黃才駿 | Lushan (Sarina) Sun 孫璐姍

June 18 - September 30, 2021 @ ITC Store (Block HJ Room HJ211) and The Fashion Gallery (online), PolyU

 

Webinar series coming soon!

Curation: Lushan (Sarina) Sun, Jackie Leung, Tsai-chun Huang
Exhibit Management: Magnum Lam, HO Hiu Tung Hilton, Yuki Cheng
Photography: LEE Wai Leung 
Graphic Design: SO Chung Wa Elisa, CHEUNG Ching Fung Caelan, MA Hoi Yan Phyllis
Videography: Tina Ho, Oscar Ko, JIM, Yu Ching, Tiffany Chow
Styling: Jesse Yau, Miki Leung 
Modelling: Lai Pui Ki Peggy, LO Pan Chi Pansy, LAM Ching Nam Jasmine 
Exhibit Assistance: Simran Gulati, WAN Chi Hin Lawrence, Marcus Kuo

Introduction | 展覽介紹

FashionTech Timelapsed is a physical and online exposition jointly organized by the ITC Store and Fashion Gallery. It is developed to present and demystify the evolution of fashion technology from traditional hands-on craftsmanship to emerging digital methods. FashionTech Timelapsed forms a dialogue about the essence of the ever-changing technologies in product development for both the designer and the wearer through a storytelling approach. It features three groups of selected textile designs from ITC scholars, Dr Lushan (Sarina) Sun, Ms Jackie Leung, and Dr Tsai-chun Huang. Each group represents a technology genre that reveals textile design processes, material behavioural manipulations, and fabrication methods.

The event highlights the complementary natures between the seemingly dichotomous fashion technologies in traditional and modern design environments. Ultimately, it aims to raise awareness of the potential advantages, challenges, and impacts of the wide range of fashion technology integrations in the modern industry. As a part of the exposition, a series of complimentary webinars/workshops are developed to provide further discussion and education on fashion technology with students, experts, and industry professionals.

Expert Review

The exposition“ feels completely appropriate for these current times, embracing simultaneous online and physical curation and display…the idea of exhibiting the process of making, from low to high tech - alongside the final outputs and explainers allows for inclusivity and appeal to a wider audience from knowledge exchange with industry through to potential students”. “The design of the exhibition encompasses a potentially exciting relevant variety of display approaches. The process/making aspects put the garment displays into context alongside the (digital) videos.

----Ms. Philippa Brock, Central Saint Martins, UK
 

Felting and Couture Technologies by Jackie Leung, MA

Fashion technology has traditionally been a type of hands-on craftsmanship. Needle felting is the process of transforming wool into 3D objects using a barbed needle. In wool felting, fibres are agitated, so they bond together and create a solid fabric. Felting needles are now designed to be used in industrial felting machines to do felting at a much larger scale. Thousands of felting needles are in these machines making nonwoven fabric or felt sheets. The felted textile can be wrinkle-resistant and resistant to abrasion than other woollen fabrics.

Hyacinth

   

Fibre: Wool and Silk | Fabric: Silk Tulle

 

 

Hyacinth imitates the melting effect on a human body through experimenting with felting lustrous wool and silk fibres with sheer silk tulle. The reflection of light from the matte wool surface and the body complexion forms a visually interesting contrast.

Peony & Lily

   

Fabric: Silk | Synthetics

 

 

Peony and Lily are dresses inspired by the elegance and intensity of the ballet body movement and emotions. Couture sewing techniques were utilized to help achieve the finishing details and garment stylelines that optimize ballerina’s movements in performance. Additional bodily freedom and expressions are therefore possible.

Pleating Technology by Tsai-chun Huang, PhD

Since Egyptian times, pleating technique has been used for hundreds of years. It is often fabricated with a heat setting technique where fabric is placed between a two part mould and put inside a steaming machine. Traditionally, a pleat fluting iron is casted with pleat patterns on two matching parts. It is heated to sandwich fabrics for pleat setting. Heat set pleat continues to be a common technique in today’s fashion industry.

 

Currently, various industrial and manual pleating machines and tools are used to create diverse pleat designs for textile and apparel developments. With diverse textile design creations, pleats are used in more ways than ever before, including functional applications in commercial and specialty fields, like protective medical wearable (e.g., face mask), space suit, and interior.

 

Paper pleating is an efficient and hands-on approach to explore various folding patterns with different aesthetic and functional applications. In wearable development, it may serve as the prototype for fabric conversion that conceals, reveals, and manipulates particular body parts' mobility. With various weights, the paper pleats also can be further developed into moulding tools for the fabric pleating process.

Gold Nose of Green Ginger    

Artistic Advisory: Joshua Sofaer

 

Material: Card Stock Paper & Metal Bell

Fabric: Cotton Denim & Synthetics

Pleat Type: Accordion Fold & V-pleat Fold

Pleat Dimension: 50 x 150 cm (collar/hat) & 100 x 250 cm (skirt)

 

Gold Nose of Green Ginger is a paper folding wearable art ensemble that demonstrates varying levels of tactile textile and the convertible potentials of such ordinary material. The shapes and silhouettes create both flexibilities and limitations for the body in various forms of expression.

Cubic Pleating

 

Fabric: Silk & Polyester

Technique: Heat Set Pleating

Pleat Type: Square Twist Fold

Pleats dimension: 3 x 3 x 3 cm

The Cubic Pleating is a textile art created using heat set pleating technique on natural and synthetic fabrics. It experiments with three dimensional square twist folds for a maximized texture and visual interests using color contrast and repeated units. 

 

 

Cubic Manic

 

Fabric: Cotton (jacket) & Polyester (skirt)

Technique: Heat Set Pleating
Pleat Type: Square Twist Fold
Pleat Dimension: 3 x 3 x 3 cm

The Cubic Manic ensemble applies heat set pleating techniques, including the use of heat adhesive interfacing, common in the ready-to-wear market today. It experiments with three dimensional square folds on cotton and polyester for maximized crisp texture and visual interests on selected garment parts. In addition, the added volume uniquely manipulates the body proportion in the shoulder and hip areas.

Digital Fabrication Technologies by Lushan (Sarina) Sun, PhD

In the last two decades, the rise of digital fashion technologies have become more relevant and disrupts the traditional garment development processes for ready-to-wear apparel. The technology of 3D printing (3DP) is a form of additive manufacturing based on a 3D Computer-aided design (3D CAD) file. FDM is one type of 3DP that can fabricate unconventional flat textile layer by layer through a heated nozzle that extrudes filament and fuses the material in the printing process.

 

Although the technology of 3D printing (3DP) presents vast potential in apparel developments, the textile design and fabrication need to be innovated from both the 3D CAD and 3DP aspects. Currently, a relatively more in-depth exploration in the use of 3DP for footwear. Soon, mass produced or customized 3DP integrated apparel can be possible through advanced 3DP technology, materials, and 3D CAD processes.

 

Digital textile printing is the process of making prints from a 2D computer-aided design (2D CAD) electronic file.  Digital imagery can be easily created or modified on a computer and directly printed onto the traditional fabrics. It is an alternative to conventional printing methods, such as screen printing and sublimation printing for textile design. Today, it is considered a more sustainable approach that reduces fabric dye use and reduces lead time in design and production.

Daring to Sprint

 

FDM 3D Printed Textile: Nylon

Fabric: Compression Knit

Post-finishing: Synthetic Dyeing

 

Daring to Sprint is a conceptual activewear ensemble that experiments with functional use of the FDM 3D printing nylon for compression textile. The 3D printed textile insets are digitally designed to behave like fabrics cut on the bias with a level of stretch and compression strength. They undergo post-finishing of synthetic dyeing to add colour and coordinate with the digitally printed knit fabric.

Instilled

 

FDM 3D Printed Textile: Nylon

Fabric: Silk Charmeuse

Post-finishing: Synthetic Dyeing

 

Instilled features FDM 3D printed elastic lace using nylon filament. In 3D CAD, a single unit organic shape is multiplied to various scales and assembled to form a large sheet of textile that resembles traditional lace. The 3D printed textile for the back bodice undergoes post finishing of synthetic dyeing to add colour and coordinate with the digitally printed silk.

Striated  

Collaboration with Jean Parsons, PhD

 

Fabric: Soy Knit

Digital Textile Printing: Photographic based Engineered Prints

Patternmaking: Minimal Waste

 

Striated is a three piece ensemble experimenting with engineered digital textile design on soy knit. Photographic images of cow omasum are modified in 2D CAD software that manipulates the proportion of the physical body. Minimal waste flat pattern technique was also used to reduce the seams in the garment and create organic silhouettes for convertible styling.

Summer Webinar Series | 展覽研討會

Coming soon!